The use of milk, butter or cream is universal in sweet goods. Over the last decades, however, use of increasingly more  sophisticated dairy components has become common. Early dried milks found application in milk breads, providing much- needed enhanced protein levels in a very basic food cornrnodity, white bread. Today, enormously sophisticated separation and modification processes make vast numbers of dairy—derived ingredients available to bakers. A large proportion of those ingredients are derived from whey, a waste product from cheese manufacture. Whey fresh from the cheesemaking process contains about 6 per cent solids, largely milk sugar (lactose) which is residual noncurdling protein left after rennetting or setting the cheese, and minerals. Depending upon the process, it contains added salt and minerals derived naturally from milk. While some lactic acid is produced by culture bacteria in nearly all whey, so-called “sweet whey” from cheddar and similar rennetted cheeses, is lower in acid (pH typically above 5.5) than “acid whey” (pH typ- ically below 5.1), though both contain substantial lactose. Acid whey, derived from cottage, ricotta or similar cheeses, has a more savoury flavor. Sweet whey is common in baking, while acid whey is usually limited to sour dough and similar goods where the flavor profile is consistent. It is rare for this unconcentrated whey to be used in baking today. Only farmhouse or smaller integrated operations still fol- low this practice, due to the complexity and cost of transporting large volumes of liquid. A further complication arises from the fact that the culture bacteria continue to act in the whey unless it is repasteurized, turning lactose to lactic acid and changing sweet whey to acid. Many bakers are familiar with whey powder as an ingredient. Creamy beige, free flowing, and slightly sweet, it will absorb moisture if exposed, and lump. It is produced from single strength whey typically by first condensing the whey using filter concentration, then by a combination of heating and partial vacuum. This will raise the solids level to 50 per cent or more. Next, this condensed whey is then dried by spray or drum drying. The former provides a lighter coloured product, while the latter is often less costly to manufacture. Different procedures result in different properties for the finished whey powder, which can impact usefulness and performance in final applications. Larger commercial bakeries have, in some cases, taken advantage of the cost savings provided by using condensed whey rather than incurring the costs associated with drying and then re-hydrating the whey. It is essential, however, that condensed whey be handled extremely carefully, as the very high lactose sugar crystal content can cause the highly concentrated mix of sugar and protein to turn to a cement-like material, with major impact upon transport tankers, pumps, lines and holding tanks. The limited shelf life of the condensed whey can also be a con- cern, as it is essentially unprotected against yeast and mould growth. The functions of whey in baked goods are many, and include: Adding protein: Adding whey boosts protein levels, but it also makes baked goods better quality sources of protein. Wheat, like many cereals, is somewhat low in the amino acid lysine. Whey contributes added lysine, providing a more complete protein. This is particularly useful in geriatric or sports-related products. Water holding: Lactose sugar is not degraded rapidly by yeast, and so remains present during baking to secure water and increase lubricity of dough; together with the proteins in whey, it can reduce the speed of desiccation from staling. Gelationz Whey protein in whey powder, or in whey protein preparations, can form protein structures settable by heat. This can increase perceived gluten strength, while other whey components soften the crumb texture. Emulsification: Whey proteins can also have film forming ability, which enables their use in stabilizing and sparing fat in cake formulas. Likewise, they are invaluable in manufacturing icings, fillings and toppings. Browning: The lactose/protein combination of whey contributes significantly to browning, and is particularly effective in low-sugar formulas. Flavor improvement and line speed advantages can result. The golden—brown colour provided is resistant to dulling in frozen storage in the case of “thaw and sell” items. Bread for home toasting particularly benefits from enhanced browning. Another advantage is the development of full browning in parbaked goods destined for microwave finishing. Flavor and functionality: Using whey powder in place of other fermentable sugars in such slow—pro~of or long—hold for- mulas as some pizza dough can ensure both a residual sweet- ness as well as good browning even after days of retarding. Slower fermentation by the yeast generates adequate flavour while providing longer usable life. WPC and WPI (respectively whey protein concentrate and isolate) are produced by removing the non—protein portions. This permits the specific functionalities of protein to be utilized without the lactose sugar effects outlined. Of course the reverse is also available, using crystal lactose. Typical effects of lactose alone or in whey include quicker initial rise, as well as better gas retention. Native and modified whey proteins are also the basis for products acting as substitutes for egg white in many applications, including cake formulas and bakery glazes. They can also significantly improve the colour, chewiness and performance of standard and low-fat cookie formulas. Almost any bread, roll or bun formula is a great test bed for whey. Use at two to five per cent of the total formula (not baker’s per cent), adjusting sweetener down a little to control browning if need be. Use sweet whey powder for best results, and if avail- able, use a high heat powder. You may see a slight reduction in mix time. With a little tinkering, you’ll likely see a more appealing, moister, and more resilient loaf, along with a crust flavor improvement. Freeze/thaw   should also be improved, if that is a   factor in your products.  By: Bob Mcdougall

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